I had a couple of reminders today of how powerful the streams here can be. The first, right outside my camp, was a stream littered with huge trees that were uprooted by the torrents of water during snow melt (pictured). I had walked over to the stream for water and stood there for probably about 10 minutes just trying to fathom what kind of earthly force could create such devastation. Later, about a mile into my hike I hit Kennedy Creek, where I crossed the remains of a log bridge destroyed by boulders and trees that get carried with the stream (pictured). Now these bridges are basically made of a single solid tree, two feet in diameter, that have been cut flat on one side. To see one snapped like a twig really makes you glad you weren't trying to pass when the water was high.
After Kennedy Creek I began my first climb, up 2000 feet. From there I had a gentle cruise for a couple of miles before climbing another 500 feet to Fire Creek Pass. Again, this wasn't the hardest hiking I had ever done, so I allowed myself to become a little hopeful that the rumors of Glacier Peak's difficulty were exaggerated. At the top of the pass the trail drops 2500 feet to Milk Creek before climbing 2000 feet right back up the other side. You see this climb from Fire Creek Pass as a series of steep switchbacks on the other side of a deep glacier carved valley (pictured). There are over 50 to get you up and over the next ridge, and my hopes of a less strenuous day went out the window. I headed down a steep snow bank and past a beautiful frozen lake. Often times the water at the edges of these lakes melts first, then sits in bowls of ice too deep beneath the surface to have melted yet. This causes the water to take on brilliant hues of blue. I have seen a lot of this throughout my hike, but nowhere as spectacular as here (pictured).
After the lake came a long downhill grind, and with each step downward the full realization of the climb ahead began to grow. Finally I reached the bottom, paused for a meal on the bridge over Milk Creek, and braced myself for a bitch of a climb. This last climb did in fact turn out to be the hardest and most time consuming of the day, because it was overgrown with dense thickets of berry brambles and ferns. The plants make it hard to see your footing, which is often treacherous with loose rock. They also increase the temperature and provide resistance that makes it feel more like you're swimming uphill than hiking. Of all the climbs I have done over 2500+ miles, this was one of only a handful where I took a rest break midway up. From the top of the hill I looked back at Fire Creek Pass (pictured) and then hiked on. The trail rounds the Northern side of Glacier Peak, enjoying beutiful views of distant mountains, framed by wildflower filled meadows (pictured). It then drops again to Suiattle River, where I am now camped. I snapped a quick picture of myself having dinner on the bridge, reflecting on the hardships of the day and glad to have a place to rest my weary body.
I only made 25 miles today because of the long climbs, so I'll have some mileage to make up for in t
he upcoming days. Unfortunately the worst is not over. I have two more 1500 foot climbs tomorrow before I can cruise again.
