I got a real taste of Portland weather when I woke up this morning. The sky was a haze of white and mist drifted everywhere through the trees. I must have been up early, because every time I passed an occupied campsite the occupants were still asleep. I wouldn't be surprised to find out I was, because today was like another mini Christmas. I was meeting my aunt, Sandie, in Cascade Locks for lunch.
As the sun rose the mist remained, but the sky took on a pinkish-purple hue. It looked like I was hiking through a cup of plum sake. The trail descended below the level of the fog and into the Eagle Creek Canyon. I had decided, based on the urging of several hikers as well as my guide book, to take this trail as an alternate route down to town. All I can say is that you have to hike this trail. Yes, you. Right now. Drop whatever you're doing and get up here. Call in sick, ditch school, lock the kids in a closet for the weekend - whatever it takes. You'll thank me for it. The trail along Eagle Creek is blasted into the rock walls of the canyon, affording the hiker excellent views of a series of impressive falls. My favorite was Tunnel Falls, so named because the trail actually runs through a tunnel behind the waterfall.
I took pictures coming down the canyon, and had to remember to breathe I was so excited. I had my excited face on (pictured), and yet not many dayhikers wanted to stop and chat. Go figure. Actually, seeing dayhikers was a treat too. It's been a while since I've been around a lot of people. What struck me was the odors of civilization out in the middle of a wilderness. I kept smelling soap, shampoo, lotions, cologne, perfume, cigarettes, pot, etc. It was like a symphony of smells I never noticed back at home, probably because our noses are so bombarded we learn to tune it out.
I made it to Cascade Locks by hiking along the old Columbia River Gorge Highway. It was the first paved road in the area, but became quickly obsolete when the interstate was built. Now it is just a quiet little path with interesting stonework and pretty views of the woods. When I arrived in town I found the first restaurant, called my aunt to let her know I made it, and sat down to first lunch. First lunch today was a slice of homemade marionberry pie, a vanilla milkshake, and coffee. When Sandie and Donald showed up, first lunch gave way to second lunch, a burger and fries with a soda and more coffee.
Sandie and Donald are looking good, and seem to be keeping plenty busy. I'll forget out here on the trail, so happy early birthday to Sandie. Aside from her birthday coming up, Sandie is prepping for my cousin's bachelor party. Andrew is getting married in October in New Orleans, and I'm really looking forward to going. Of course, it's supposed to be fancy, so I'll have learn how to eat with utensils again, and not to lift my leg when I fart in public. I totally got this. I'm all about fancy.
After lunch I got my resupply out of Sandie's car, along with some goodies she brought for me. At the last minute she bought some cherries from a roadside vendor. They were a delicious snack as I hiked, though I'm not sure my digestive system knows what to do with them considering they're not made of peanut butter.
Donald and I walked across the Bridge of the Gods together and marvelled at the view. I highly recommend walking across if you ever get the chance. I got some pictures of the bridge, and a shot of the piers that the Native Americans fish from. Donald explained what they were and noted that the Native Americans are the only ones able to fish here. That whole saga is interesting, but maybe another time.
I burned off all of lunch and then some on a 3000 foot climb out of the Columbia River Gorge. I had bid farewell to Sandie and Donald on the far side of the bridge as I headed off into Washington. I managed another 16 miles or so, bringing my total for the day to 32. There was an amazing late afternoon sun through some mist at the top of the mountain, for which my pictures do not do justice. I also enjoyed some fresh trailside berries on the way up the mountain. Delicious blackberries, raspberries, and assorted unidentified - hey, they can't be poison if they taste good right? (Just kidding of course).
So, reflections on Oregon. Well, the title of the post is also the title of one of my favorite books. It's been a while since I've read it, but it is (in part) about a logging family in Oregon and their constant and inevitably futile struggle against the land. That's how I felt much of the time; what with long climbs through green tunnels just to descend and start over. Or fighting off a swarm of mosquitoes only to hike a quarter mile into a whole new cloud. And of course hiking through miles of snow straining to find trail, then finding it but losing it again less than a quarter mile later. I feel like a trespasser here - one that the land does not suffer lightly. You don't develop land here, you pick a plot and wage a lifelong war, which you will ultimately lose. That was the Oregon PCT for me. That said, do visit Crater Lake and the mountains of the Cascades. Do go hike the Eagle Creek trail, and catch some Shakespeare in Ashland. Just for the love of all that is holy, don't come in July when the mosquitoes and snow still abound!
