My hike began with 1500 feet up Middle Ridge, with a nice view back to Glacier Peak (pictured). Then, with no break, I had another 1500 foot climb up to Siuattle Pass (pictured). From there I had only to endure one more 500 foot climb before I headed down to Big Agnes Creek, which marked the beginning of a long and easy downhill cruise. It was a nice change of pace to be sure, and I made great time on the 12 miles to the High Bridge Guard Station at Stehekin Road.
From the road I had a choice, take a forest service bus down 14 miles to Stehekin, or continue onward. Going to town would mean a hot meal and a bit of rest, though it would also mean losing valuable hiking time. On the other hand I could move on and knock out a few more miles, making the days ahead a bit easier on myself. Eventually I decided that, since I had eaten so much of my food going around Glacier Peak, I needed to head into town to restock. I caught the last shuttle of the day, which meant I would be stuck in town overnight. It was a short bus ride that went from Big Agnes River (pictured), past Rainbow Falls (pictured), and into Stehekin.
At the resort I ate a delicious meal of Eggplant Napoleon, and sat on the patio with several other through hikers (Charlie, Snapper, and Sleep Ninja). Charlie is one of those who hikes bits and pieces of the trail almost every year, ever since he fell in love with the PCT on his first through hike. Snapper is a German who will be turning back at the Canadian border. He can't leave the country or else he'll have difficulty getting back in. Lastly, Sleep Ninja is a Texan who is section hiking, starting somewhere in Northern California.
After dinner we found a camp site near town and sat back to drink and chat. I wasn't used to sharing a camp with other people and it was nice to sit back and watch the meteor showers while bullshitting about whatever came to mind. At one point Charlie began to discuss the merits of CSAs for American agriculture. I didn't know what a CSA was (he didn't know what it stood for either), but I guess it's some sort of non-profit that buys local produce and delivers it to consumers. Apparently it puts more of the profit in the farmer's pocket while ensuring that the consumer gets locally sourced and seasonal produce. Sounded like a great idea, though I wondered if it wasn't better to buy direct from the farmer at a farmers market. I asked him this and was surprised at how vehemently he opposed the idea. Well actually he just kept cutting me off and reiterating what a CSA was, which didn't really get us anywhere new. I realized he was a crusader, one of the many types of hikers you find out here.
Crusaders are what I call people with extremely strong opinions who feel that any discussion about their convictions represents an undermining of their entire world view. Thus, instead of discussing and exchanging point and counter-point, they simply talk over, insult, ignore, redirect, or use any other tactic to dominate the conversation. Usually I avoid conversations with these people, as it is easier just to agree and move on than to try to wade into the morass that is their logic. Unfortunately I had a couple of beers and was interested in the conversation, so I pressed on. I tried to support my assertion that buying direct would mean more money for the farmer in an ideal world because it cuts out the middle man.
"Where are you getting your information from!?" he demanded angrily.
"I dunno, I'm just speculating here," I replied.
"Well this conversation is OVER. I'm not going to bother talking to someone who is just guessing!"
He was clearly disgusted.
"Well, where did you get your information from?" I queried as he rose to go to his tent.
"I'm... guessing. But I told you that up front!!!"
So there you have it. If you must guess, tell everyone up front and your guess becomes more valid than theirs.
Everyone headed off to bed from there, but I stayed out watching the stars for a bit longer. The stars out here really are amazing, and I don't see them as often as you might think. The sun sets late, and it really doesn't get dark enough to see a lot of stars until late. Usually I am asleep by then. I let the events of the day wash over me under the soft glow of the heavens above, until weariness dragged me to my tent to sleep.
Anyway, I am far behind schedule, but tomorrow I will hit the bakery (which has been highly recommended), then get back to the trail for a long day.
P.S. I met Billy Goat yesterday. He is a PCT celebrity, a real John Muir type. He hikes about 10 months out of the year, and is somehow well known by every through hiker on the trail. He is an older guy, around 70, with long hair and a sun bleached beard. We chatted briefly about trail conditions, weather,etc. All the regular trail talk. What a nice guy, although a bit weird to meet someone whose picture you have seen on a T-shirt. More to come tomorrow!
