The temperature turned cool overnight, and the morning showed no signs of improvement. I woke up to a cold breeze and a grey and dreary sky. Exactly the weather you don't want right before you head up into the snow. I knew the slopes would all be icy from the night's cold, so I decided to relax a bit and let the sun come out before I started. I boiled water for my morning energy drink, which is something I do when I am either having a rough time and need a pick-me-up, or on mornings when I need an excuse to dawdle.
I sat reading, finishing one of the two books I've been reading. This one is called "Escape from Katmandu," a light read good for mentally exhausting days. The other book is "The Night Country," which is the book Uncle John sent me. I read chapters in that and then switch to the lighter material. That gives me time to digest the more thought provoking material of the latter book. "The Night Country" has some interesting musings and observations on our conceptions of the world around and within us. Loren Eiseley, the author, is at times pragmatic, poetic, wry, pensive, and borderline melodramatic. I can definitely see why Uncle John thought of Eiseley when he started reading my blog. One thing is certain, Eiseley would have found no shortage of material out here. There is an interesting relationship with the night hours for sure. Being here alone, every noise, or every shadow deeper than those around it evokes a certain primal reaction. Not to mention the interesting times I've had when, upon turning on my headlamp at night, I see just how many insects I'm sleeping with. And of course the hours of solitude give rise to all kinds of thoughts about the nature of self.
After an hour or so it looked like the weather might start to clear. Sure enough, after a couple of miles I had blue skies. I first lost the trail in snow at the junction between the PCT and the "Round the Mountain Trail." I picked it up again near Adams Creek, maybe 5 miles further on. For some reason the snow didn't bother me too badly today. I think there are a few reasons. First, I've had several days free of snow and mosquitoes, so my mind is rested. Second, I have extensive views of more than just rolling forested hills. I'm more of a mountain guy, and seeing Mt. St. Helens (pictured), Rainier (pictured) and Goat Rocks (part of the panorama picture) in the distance kept me energized. Finally, I've learned better than to even try to keep to the trail. Spending hour upon hour searching for trail, finding it, and losing it again is exhausting - physically and mentally. Instead I just climbed up to where the views were good and resigned myself to a snowy slog. Speaking of views, Mt. Adams has an amazing glacier. I used the five fingered ice axe technique to climb a snow slope until I was about a mile from the base of it. Huge steps of ragged ice, cracked and flowing down slope. Well, see for yourself, I took a distant shot and a close-up.
After finding the trail on the north side of the mountain, the rest of the day was a cruise. I had made my goal for the day, getting past Mt. Adams. Everything else was gravy. I hiked long into the evening, which is rapidly becoming my favorite time to hike. The sunlight pours in through the trees in fantastic gold and orange bands, the sky starts to turn fantastic pinks and purples, and you can hike any pace you like because the hard work is done for the day. I reached a north facing spur ridge right at sunset, with mist weaving in through the trees. I could see Goat Rocks in the distance, disappearing into clouds on each end of the range. Mist made it so that only vague shapes of mountains were visible, backlit by a soft golden glow. What a sight!
Tomorrow I will head up into those mountains. Frankly I am a bit nervous. Mt. Adams was straightforward. The snow wasn't fun, but if I kept the mountain on my right I knew I would be ok. Goat Rocks, on the other hand, looks on my map like a wilderness maze of sharp ridges and steep drops. The trail crosses glaciers in the best of times, and these are not the best of times. Still, resupply is now only 35 miles away, so I'm hoping to make at least 25 through the snow tomorrow, then pick the rest up the next morning. Today I made 30, despite the snow, so maybe it's possible.
On an unrelated note, I discovered an unexpected downside to facial hair. I was eating my super trail burrito (see recipe below), when I got some peanut butter in my moustache. I have no napkins, and I didn't want to wipe it off with my hand because my hand is dirty, and then I would just have to wipe it on something else. So instead I sat there and tried to lick my moustache like a dog with peanut butter on its nose. Not an easy task I assure you.
Recipe for Super Trail Burrito
1. Coat one tortilla with butter flavored Crisco
2. Cover with another tortilla
3. Coat second tortilla with peanut butter (because I've always felt that Mexican food needs more peanut butter)
4. Sprinkle the peanut butter liberally with tortilla chips or nacho cheese flavored Doritos
5. (Optional) Add a helping of chocolate covered raisins
Roll it up and enjoy!
