I felt good starting out today, despite the nonstop elevation gain. My campsite was around 3400 and the trail finally settled out, 16 miles later, at 8300 feet. I took a picture at the top of ridge overlooking my campsite, and then later from higher up looking down on that ridge (it is the faint blue ridge in the center, just this side of the smog).
I decided to come down the Acorn Ridge Trail into Wrightwood, another 2.7 miles. There was supposed to be a campground at the bottom. I figured on cheap showers and a meal in town, plus easier to pick up my box tomorrow. As it turns out the campground is one of those private deals for school groups and boyscouts. It was either find a hotel or hike back up the ridge, 3000 feet above me. I went with the hotel.
On the way down I ran into the asian couple from Silverwood Lake. They were out on a dayhike and seemed shocked to see me. They said it was because it was impossible to go so far so quickly. I suspect the real reason was because they fully expected me to be eaten or shot by now. We chatted a bit, then they loaded me with a box of granola bars before sending me down the trail.
A note for future hikers, Wrightwood isn't worth the stop. It's like Idyllwild but more spread out and with more expensive hotels. Tack on the bitch of a hike down here and it amounts to a big thumbs down from me.
I rolled into my hotel, which is owned and operated by a Korean family. I tried making friendly conversation with the owner, but got the sense he didn't trust me as far as he could throw me. I apologize for the racial insensitivity, but I swear this is exactly how the conversation went...
"So what bling you hea'?"
"I'm hiking the Pacific Crest Trail and here to pick up supplies."
(BLANK STARE)
"Whel you stay last night?"
"I stayed over near the pass."
"What name hotel?"
"I was camping. I'm walking from Mexico to Canada."
(LONG, UNCOMFORTABLE, SKEPTICAL STARE)
"You walk?"
"Yes."
"Then you sleep. Then you walk mol?"
"Exactly"
(MORE STARING)
"So you dlive hea' on business?"
I looked at my loaded pack, then at the parking lot devoid of cars. I sighed.
"Yes"
He nodded approvingly.
I am currently soaking in the spa tub in my room. The water temperature is, to be generous, warmer than room temperature. I guess the 40 gallon hot water heater, set at 75 degrees, attempting to fill a 100 gallon tub, just wasn't meant to be.
I should be more open minded about Wrightwood. I ate dinner at The Yodeler (good but overpriced) when the bartender told me there are lots of trail angels in town. He said I should check the hardware store, where there are notices for trail angels looking to host a PCT hiker. I still wouldn't come down unless I planned a zero, but maybe others will have more luck. As for me, I'm going to sit in my lukewarm bath and eat some icecream.